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Cucina Marocco
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Morocco
is a place of contradictions: of light and dark, luxury and despair,
obedience and unrest. Where the solemn desert floor greets vibrant
tile facades and water is a luxury. To the north, the Atlantic Ocean
and Mediterranean Sea cap the fertile coast. To the south, the Atlas
Mountains peak at Mount Toubkal then plummet 14,000 feet, sliding
into the Western Sahara. Climate extremes mean life and death. Somewhere,
between the spectrum of myth and reality, is Morocco. An observer
for only a week, seven days was barely enough time for the awe to
subside. Morocco reveals itself in many ways; curvaceous sand dunes,
tiny cove in the walled market place painted with fresh blood from
a butcher's block, the weathered lines of an old woman's face. From
a distance it's easy to romanticize the mystique of Morocco. In
truth, it is a puzzle for the sense, tactile and alive--overwhelming
so. After
shuffling through immigration, baggage claim, and customs, the large
glass doors of the Mohammed V Airport slide back, unveiling a slab
of foreign faces cloaked in silence. Through the swaths of silk
and coiled turbans emerge mocha skin and coffee bean eyes. In a
brief moment, one thing is clear: no matter the modest ensembles,
no matter the absence of tennis shoes, or the presence of a Moroccan
guide--there will be no anonymity. Chins tucked in, we follow Mustapha's
lead through the maze. Mustapha is our sage through Morocco. Though
he was educated in the United States and loves his American citizenship,
Mustapha has the soul of a Moroccan. His childhood memories and
former life in Morocco proved a bottomless well from which to draw.
However, the barrier remained. We enjoyed our piggyback ride on
the heels of a native son whose ambitions flourished in America
and are restored by his country's culinary heritage. Mustapha overlooks
the obvious poverty in his country to celebrate what Moroccans share
most graciously and without complaint-their food. Mustapha
at the helm--Americans in tow, we dodge oncoming traffic, past rows
of grubby horses sagging under carriages and dive into the abyss
of the Marrakech market place. Place Djemaa el-Fna swarms with people.
Solicitations and open fists are thrust forward with every camera
flash. Dancing dwarfs and fire breathers part the converging crowds.
The commotion of outdoor food stalls auctioning their goods fills
the air with thick smoke, dry spice, and diesel. The smells and
sounds of Marrakech follows me to bed. Dawn commences with the morning
call to prayer--broadcast over a loud speaker. The monotone hymns
sail past the doors of the mosque, over empty streets and city buildings
to where I lay. Though haunting, the sound is moving. I try to imagine
what the singer implores. How many knees touch the ground? How many
children crouch, droopy eyed, contemplating sleep. For several nights,
I rose and slept to this hypnotic song. Islamic
ideology resounds in every aspect of Moroccan life. It has been
a part of Moroccan culture since the 600s when Arabs brought Islam
to the Berber tribes of maghreb, "the west." Muslim rule
emerged by way of Arab and Berber fundamentalists, extremely devout
and conservative. The Moors, as they were known, ruled Morocco and
much of Muslim Spain and Europe by the tenth century. Their beliefs
inspired the geometri patterns employed in mosaic tile designs and
latticework on building exteriors; godly images are strictly forbidden.
During this time, Andalusian culture, art, and architecture blossomed.
Calligraphy of the Arabic language, colorful pottery of Spanish
descent, and rich textiles are all highly decorative examples of
the Spanish-Muslim heritage. In fact, the two main influences in
Morocco history are of Arab and Spanish descent. The French became
part of Morocco's most recent history. Having occupied the country
from the early 1900s, the French contributed much in the way of
education; today, French is spoken as naturally as Arabic. As a
result, Moroccans are multilingual, speaking Arabic, French, and
Spanish, fluently, though French is the language of business. After
centuries of political struggle and cultural homogenizing, Morocco
achieved independence in 1956. Autonomy now established, a youthful
King in place, this third world country discovers its identity--one
separate from its kinship with the Middle East, Spain, and France.
"And
he will take your daughters to be confectionaries, and to be cooks,
and to be bakers." Genesis 40:2 It's
no secret, women rule the kitchens of Morocco. Because of extremes
in poverty and wealth, those who work in the kitchen greatly outnumber
those who don't. As such, Moroccan cuisine is born of a subculture.
Moroccan cuisine has emerged and been passed down through generations
of women. The executive chefs of elite hotels may not be female,
but rest assured, a vast majority of the meals prepared are by Moroccan
women. "The law of abundance" rules culinary etiquette.
Moroccans are notorious for preparing exorbitant banquets. Meals
begin with a hand washing ceremony--an extravagant display considering
the value of water. At first, small plates with pickled vegetables,
olives, and bread arrive. Tender carrots marinated in cinnamon,
roasted beets in vinaigrette, and fried eggplant are all good. Pigeon
soup with chickpeas, silky and warm goes unusually well with sesame
and honey covered fritters. Gradually the table fills. Multitudes
of courses, as many as twenty-seven, arrive. Mound after mound of
couscous, tagines, bisteeyas, lamb, chicken, and fish is served
and cleared, with perhaps only a spoon sized portion removed. In
a country of so much poverty, the excess at the table is astounding.
All is washed down with mint tea--a highly sweetened beverage made
freshly and with flourish. Most Moroccan dishes are derivatives
of a thirteenth century manuscript, which documents the country's
culinary history. As in most countries, families and regions personalize
the recipes to suit their means. Perhaps the biggest difference
between Moroccan and European cuisine is found in the cooking techniques.
Moroccans make efficient use of heat and water, a precious commodity
in the desert climate. Meat, fish, or chicken dishes are placed
in tagine vessels with spices, aromatics, and a mere spoon of water.
When placed in the hot coals of the public ovens overnigtht, the
A frame lid of the tagine pot enables moisture to circulate in the
form of steam and condensation, keeping the dish moist. Sauces are
not prepared with stocks made from a separate ration of bones, as
in the European kitchen, but rather the entire cut of meat or fish
is stewed until cooked. The resulting cooking liquid is simmered,
seasoned, and served as the accompanying sauce. The basics of Moroccan
cooking are simple though its ingredients and cooking techniques
are time consuming. The Moroccan pantry is filled with familiar
ingredients, but they are prepared in unusual ways. Having many
of the staples on hand, makes for more efficient cooking. Couscous
is the staple starch of Morocco. Smeeda or large grain semolina
flour is the grain of choice to make couscous. Though available
prepackaged, labor intensive, handmade couscous is often found in
the restaurants and homes of Morocco. Packaged couscous is best
prepared by rinsing the grains in cold water. The couscous is covered
with three times its volume. of water and set aside in a large,
shallow bowl to swell for 10 minutes. The grains are stirred manually
to separate any clumps and transferred to a cheesecloth-lined couscousiere,
or metal colander. over a hot water bath to steam for 20 minutes.
The couscous is transferred to a large, shallow bowl and sprinkled
with cold water. The couscous is stirred lightly with oiled hands
to separate the grains and set aside to dry for 10 minutes. The
couscous is returned to the prepared couscousiere to steam for 10
minutes before serving. Doqq
or preserved lemons are, along with olives, the most distinctive
ingredient in Moroccan cuisine. The small variety of doqq or boussera
lemons is especially good for salt preserving. American varieties
are a suitable substitute. Beldi
is a type of chicken. Though tender when young, the chicken is often
butchered after many valuable egg-laying years. The meat, which
is much less tender, is ideal for the long slow cooking of a tagine.
In addition to having a firm texture, the flavor is more robust,
not unlike Rhode Island Red chickens. Gum
Arabic is harvested from the bark of acacia trees. As the sap dries,
it hardens into tiny opaque beads and is used as a flavoring, coloring,
and thickening agent in dessert preparations. Harissa
is a condiment of dried red chilies, garlic, and oil. It is used
to flavor skewered meats, fish, couscous, and vegetables. Though
prepared harissa is available, many cooks prepare harissa to suit
their own tastes. Honey
is used liberally in many preparations. The Spanish ruled region
of Melilla in northern Morocco produces thick herbal honey. Kosbour
or fresh coriander appears minced in everything from salads to tagines.
Ma
Ward or rose water is an extract of rosebuds from the central plains
of the Dades Valley. Rosewater is used to perfume pastries and some
beverages. Nigella
are tiny teardrop-shaped seeds with a slightly tannic flavor. They
are used to season and decorate many savory dishes. The seeds are
inhaled to relieve congestion. Olives
are the cornerstones of Moroccan cooking. Both cured and pressed
for their oil, olives are available by the moundful. The three best
known varieties are; tangy cracked green olives soaked in a salt
brine, delicate tan or violet olives, and sharp, dry-cured, black
olives. Many restaurants prepare their own olive cure. Ras
el Hanout is a combination of spices made to suit the taste of the
cook. The highly aromatic mix may include nutmeg, rosebuds, turmeric,
allspice, gingerroot, lavender, and aniseed, though the mix is as
varied as the taste of the cook. Ras el hanout is used to flavor
a variety of dishes. Sheriya
are vermicelli-like noodles used much like rice. The noodles are
steamed three times before they are added to a dish. Smen
includes a wide variety of seasoned butters used to season pans.
Though most are mild in flavor, some Moroccan cooks prefer to use
aged smen; a 1-7 year old preserved butter has an obvious pungent
character not unlike the blue cheeses of Europe or the oyster sauces
of Southeast Asia. Tangia
pots and recipes are a specialty of Marrakech. The broad terra cotta
urns are filled with meat, usually lamb, spices, and aromatics.
At the end of the day the prepared urns are brought- to the public
ovens and placed in coals still hot from the day of baking bread.
Overnight the meat stews at about 200 degrees. Warka
pastry sheets are made of water and flour. The paper-thin yet pliable
leaves are used in both savory and sweet preparations of bisteeya,
trid, and for many breakfast pastries. Phyllo dough, strudel leaves,
or feuille de brik are all suitable substitutes. Za'atar
is an herbal hybrid not unlike thyme, marjoram, or oregano in aroma
and flavor. It is very different from the prepackaged mixture of
thyme and sumac that also bears the 'za'atar' name. Zhaar
or orange flower water is an extract of the Bergamot orange tree.
It is used with rosewater or on its own to perfume pastries and
beverages. Warka
For
the warka: (Makes
40 8-inch leaves) 4
cups bread flour Warm
water as needed Note:
Warka pastry leaves are a staple in Morocco. Like the phyllo and
strudel doughs of Europe, making the dough is an acquired skill
that takes most Moroccans years to master. When making the pastry
leaves, the extremely pliable dough should be kept in continuous
motion in your hand. Feuille de brik or phyllo dough is a suitable
substitute. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's
at (973) 742-7125 For
the warka, place the flour in a large, shallow bowl. Slowly add
the water by hand, kneading in between each addition until a soft,
tacky dough forms. Continue to add water while kneading in an up-and
down pawing motion. Remove a piece of the dough, dip it in the water;
and knead it back into the dough. Continue to pull the dough until
it can be stretched 12 inches high, about 10 minutes. Place enough
water to cover the surface of the dough. Cover with a cloth. Set
aside to rest for three hours. To
finish the warka, bring a saucepan of water to a boil and maintain
at a simmer. Invert a large saucepan over the saucepan, lightly
rub with oil, and wipe clean with a cloth. Remove the cloth from
the dough, using wet hands, and take a small piece of dough in one
hand, roll it in a circular motion from the wrists. Lightly tap
the dough ball several times against the hot saucepan to form a
large circle. The dough will dry quickly and easily peel off the
pan. Transfer the cooked sheet to a parchment-lined sheet pan, cover
with a damp cloth, and set aside. Repeat with the remaining dough.
Mint
Tea 1
1/2 tablespoons gunpowder tea 1
bunch mint, stems on 1/2
cup sugar cubes Note:
Tea service is a large part of Moroccan food etiquette, often prepared
with ornate silver pots and colorful classes. Mint is not to be
stemmed to keep the leaves from clogging the teapot spout. Sugar
is always added with a generous hand, it is a sign of luxury. Conical
shapes of sugar were once part of a girl's dowry. For
the tea, in a medium teapot, rinse the tea with 1/4 cup of hot water
to remove any impurities or bitterness and drain. Cover the rinsed
tea with mint and sugar. Cover with 16 ounces of hot water and set
aside to steep for five minutes. To
serve, pour the tea from high above the glasses to aerate and amplify
the character of the tea and garnish with mint. Preserves
Lemon 5
small lemons Kosher salt as needed Note:
Preserved lemons can be stored for up to one month prior to use.
Once opened, the lemons will keep in the refrigerator for about
two months. For
the preserved lemons, in a large bowl, submerge the lemons in water
and set aside overnight. Drain the lemons and transfer to a cutting
board. Using a sharp paring knife, make a deep cut halfway through
the lemons and coat liberally with salt. Place in an airtight container
and set aside at room temperature for two weeks. Rinse lightly in
water before use. Boujemaa
Mars The
grandam of Moroccan hotels; Everybody has stayed here: Winston Churchill,
Franklin D. Roosevelt, General Charles de Gaulle, Charlie Chaplin,
Omar Sharif, Nelson Mandela. It is a hotel for history makers. Designed
in the early 1920s, the hotel exemplifies Moroccan tradition and
the Art Deco verve of the era in which it was built. Expanded from
its original one hundred room capacity, the hotel has doubled in
size. The twenty acre gardens-a wedding gift from Sultan Sidi Mohamed
Ben Abdellah to his son some two hundred years ago, account for
much of La Mamounia's grounds. The property is an orchard of orange,
lemon, banana, and palm trees. Heady roses, fuchsia bougainvillea,
and hibiscus perfume the pebble paths. A vegetable and herb garden
supplies the gourmet kitchen. Thirty-four full time gardeners devote
their attention to the maintenance and grooming of the on premise
Eden. The grand hall of the hotel is home to a mini-art gallery
including an antique collection of jewelry and silver utensils,
modern sculpture, and paintings by the modish Polish artist Tamara
de Lempicka. The
hotel provides four restaurants, one of which, Le Marocain, offers
a traditional Moorish setting amidst pastel walls detailed with
ornate carvings. Though a luxury hotel by any standards, the recipes
of Le Marocain are prepared in a traditional manner. Executive Chef
Boujemaa Mars oversees all food production at the hotel. Originally
from Souss, a small town at the foot of the Atlas mountains, Executive
Chef Mars was encouraged by his math teacher to pursue cooking,
citing that it would provide an ideal opportunity to travel and
study abroad. In 1957 Mars attended the first hotel school in Morocco,
L'Ecole Hoteliere de Rabat. Like most things Moroccan, at the time,
the cuisine he studied was French, as were the school's instructors.
His apprenticeship of three years was spent in Casablanca, also
under French chefs. Armed with a battery of European culinary skills,
Mars accepted a commis de cuisine position at the La Mamounia in
1962. He worked his way up the ladder over the years and, just as
his teacher predicted, found opportunities to travel and learn in
France and Norway. In 1978 he became the Executive Chef of La Mamounia,
overseeing all four of the hotel's food outlets. Though his training
is steeped in European technique, Mars is committed to the traditions
of regional Moroccan cuisine. Included on his menu is tangia, an
heirloom recipe in which lamb shanks seasoned with cumin, saffron,
nutmeg, and ginger are placed in a fat, terra cotta urn and cooked
overnight in the coals of the public ovens. Though he has reached
great heights of success in his native Morocco, his dream is to
share these customs with chefs abroad. Fatna
Kotni Walking
the length of a dimly lit corridor is like passing through time.
The passage gives way into a marble courtyard. We stare at the sky
and it stares back at us. The bubbling fountain juggles fragrant
roses. Several parlors enclose the candlelit gathering place. In
1830 the Dkaier family filled their home with friends and relatives.
Among those who cared for the home was a woman known to the children
as Dar Marjana, so named for the precious red stone she wore about
her neck. As the years passed, the home became the family's coveted
jewel. Today, though the family no longer lives in the house, the
narrow alley, candlelight, and gurgling fountain remain. Low sitting
tables, strewn with crimson rose petals and cobalt blue sequence
beads welcome guests to dinner. The geometric lanterns dangle from
twenty foot ceilings casting freckled light across the room. Silk
pillows of turquoise and gold elevate the banquettes. Dar Marjana,
once a private treasure has become a gilded experience for all who
share her hospitality. The restaurant has built a reputation as
providing not only one of the most beautiful settings, but also
one of the best meals in Marrakech. Much
like the Dar Marjana namesake, Fatna Kotni is revered as the surrogate
dar marjana by the red clad wait-staff who tease her relentlessly.
Her hands are amazingly smooth for a woman who labors for hours
every day in the kitchen. Her touch with spice is gentle. Like many
of Morocco's finest, Fatna Kotni has no formal culinary training,
only years of experience in a family kitchen. In 1981, while attending
a friend's dinner party, Mr. Chaouqui Mohammed Dkaier sampled Kotni's
dishes. So impressed by the meal was he that he hired her to cook
for his family's new restaurant. Kotni has served traditional favorites
of Marrakech including, trid, a labor intensive layered dish of
stewed pigeon and handmade warka pastry dough leaves. Her vegetable
studded couscous arrives in a straw tagine called a tbak, which
sits like a tableside footstool. Though the private home has been
opened to the public, the family's warm welcome and cuisine are
graciously shared with visitors. Aziz
Sakan It
is perhaps one of the most impressive doorways in Morocco, the marble
entry flanked by two fountains. A rich display of hand painted pottery
and, of course, mosaic tiles, cover every wall, hallway, and floor
throughout the hotel. A former estate of the Jamai family, the hotel
now provides some of the finest accommodations with panoramic views
of ancient Fez. Though the construction and management style are
incredibly European the Al Fassia restaurant is quintessential Moroccan.
Low to the floor banquets in rich blue velvet, a bevy of downy red
and blue pillows for post-meal-reclining, and the unmistakable scent
of fresh rose petals are all native custom. Chef
Aziz Sakan facilitates the Moroccan restaurant, one of several at
the hotel. Unlike many chefs in Morocco who begin as part of a household
staff, Chef Sakan, grew up in a well-to-do family on the outskirts
of Fez. His family kitchen, like so many, was always filled with
female cooks. Sakan spent hours watching and learning from the women.
Though he dreamed of opening his own restaurant in the United States,
he was unable to attain the required visas and paperwork. Instead,
he chose to travel and work abroad in India, Pakistan, Spain, and
Luxembourg. After thirteen years at Palais Jamai, he still maintains
a healthy travel itinerary, opting to represent the hotel abroad
in order to teach the cuisine of his homeland. Kaltoum
el Abbadi Blue
is the color of Fez. Elaborate zellij mosaics abound with cobalt
blue tiles, as do the interiors of many lavish homes in the medina
of Fez. Built in 1915, La Maison Bleue was originally constructed
as the private residence to Mohammed El Abbadi, noted judge, astrologer,
and consultant to His Majesty King Mohammed V. In the central courtyard
of this grand home is a zellij style wall fountain-a house warming
gift from the King to his favorite nobleman. The hand crafted tile
mosaics are one of several traditions that remain on the changing
face of Moroccan family life. Today, many of the private homes in
cosmopolitan Morocco welcome guests inside in order to preserve
their heritage. La
Maison Bleue restaurant is such a tribute. In 1994, the family decided
to transform the home into a restaurant to support the family home
and food culture. After eighty years, the El Abbadis opened its
doors to dinner guests. Meals are prepared by Kaltoum El Abbadi
using recipes from a 13th century literary volume, that documents
Moroccan cuisine. The book outlines butchering techniques and cooking
methods. Though some modern conveniences have been added for the
sake of efficiency, the kitchen remains traditional in nature. Appliance
like pressure cookers and food processors are not used, only time-honored
techniques, most of which require lengthy preparations. Like
most young girls in Morocco, Kaltoum El Abbadi, spent many years
in the family kitchen observing the preparation of daily meals.
The dishes, which appear at La Maison Bleue, are similar to those
grand dishes once served at family gatherings. Dinner at the restaurant
involves a generous procession starting with a series of small plates.
House cured olives and vegetables dressed with Moroccan oil, preserved
lemons, and herbs are served family style to be sopped up with wedges
of fresh bread. A collection of tender lentils, carrots and cinnamon,
roasted beets, fried eggplant and onions, and warm potatoes quickly
fill the table. Once the table is cleared, large tagines of lamb
or beef, or chicken, or all three arrive with the omnipresent peak
of steaming couscous. Though Kaltoum El Abbadi enjoys preparing
these traditional dishes, she cooks as though for family, often
taking personal requests, "I love when a guest comes in and
says, 'I have a craving for...' it allows me to welcome them into
my home." Fatima
Sahmoudi On
most afternoons, Dar Saada is a place where tourists escape the
congestion of the market to sit down and lunch on an authentic Moroccan
meal. Away from the foot traffic vendors squatting over their wilted
greens or leading mangy donkey carts, Dar Saada is an oasis in the
heart of Fez. Though popular with many large tourist groups, the
food comes from the heart of Chef Fatima Sahmoudi. "I learned
everything I know from my mother and grandmother," Sahmoudi
says with pride. "Without them I would be nothing." Like
so many young Moroccan girls, Sahmoudi learned to cook from her
grandmother, mother, and aunts who gathered in the morning to prepare
daily meals. She enjoyed learning and knowing about the culinary
arts by word of mouth and hand. Though she admires the culinary
schools, which train young students to become chefs, she maintains
tradition is a powerful teacher, "The culinary arts are very
old, you can never learn as much in school as you can from your
family and with your heart." As
one of the women who prepared meals of the Benamour household, Sahmoudi
understands well the value of a presenting dish to a guest. After
years of working on Mr. Benamour's house staff, she became the main
cook at Dar Saada. For twelve years Sahmoudi has prepared her own
preserved lemons and warka pastry, a task many women save for the
town bakers. She prefers to make the paper-thin crepes each day
on her table top griddle. The importance of preparing these sheets
by hand is a matter of time-honored tradition. She also continues
to make jobne, a homemade cow's milk cheese served as a fresh spreadable
cheese and as a sliceable aged cheese. The
popularity of Dar Saada has encouraged Mr. Benamour to tackle a
second project, The Hotel Arabesque. In the able hands of Mounia,
the General Manager, this unique hotel-house just "steps"
away from the famed Palais Jamai provides a more charming and intimate
portion of Moroccan hospitality. Hassan
Kamal Constructed
in 1930 by Lord Bute, the El Minzah Hotel was built to reflect the
Moorish style of Tangier. The convex wall of windows at El Korsan
restaurant overlooks the Straits of Gibraltar. Just outside, a stairway
plummets into the tightly bound market place in old town--the same
streets which inspired painter Henri Matisse during his stays in
the early 1900s. The
maze of stalls at the open fish market--one of Morocco's best even
though it's not geared towards tourists, provides a valuable insight
into the daily life of a Moroccan cook. Each day, women, children,
and men fill the streets to shop for the main meal in the afternoon.
Executive Chef Hassan Kamal can be found strolling among the fish
purveyors during his afternoon break from the El Minzah Hotel, where
he oversees the six different food outlets ranging from international
cuisine to regional favorites. Chef de Cuisine Achmed Abboudi is
entrusted with the task of preparing the traditional Moroccan menu
at the El Korsan restaurant. Both chefs work side by side, graciously
sharing their spotlight in the kitchen. On the hotline a battalion
of white jackets surround several prepared dishes and scrutinize
the final plating of each. There is a great sense of enthusiasm.
"Usually, we are not visited by journalists," reveals
a fellow staff member. "They go to Marrakech, Fez, and Essaouira."
Though
it may not be first on everybody's list, Tangier is filled with
a gentile spirit. Its close proximity to Spain, and Europe in general,
make for an interesting combination. Tapas bars, paella dishes,
and fish preparations make their influence known. Like its sanguine
Spanish neighbor, Moroccans sport a mean sweet tooth. Among the
country's many food specialties is an endless array of pastries,
which incorporate succulent oranges and creamy almond paste. Cookies
of coco, mluza, and kab el ghzal, and the Moroccan dessert staple,
bisteeya are mainstays at the end of the meal or with afternoon
tea. Chaariya
Medfouna Boujemaa Mars (Serves
4) For
the squab: 5
1/2 ounces unsalted butter, diced 2
tablepoons vegetable oil 4
boneless squab, quartered 5
onions, peeled and chopped 1
sprig parsley 3
threads saffron 1
teaspoon ground cinnamon 1
teaspoon ground ginger 1/4
teaspoon gum arabic[*] Water
as needed Salt,
white pepper, and nutmeg to taste For
the chaariya: 1
pound dried vermicelli, broken into 1-inch pieces 2
tablespoons vegetable oil 1/2
tablespoon unsalted butter, softened For
the garnish: Ground Cinnamon Confectioners' sugar Note:
Chaariya are short thin noodles, similar to vermicelli. Traditionally
noodles are steamed and rinsed three times before being used in
a dish. Available through Kalustyan's at (212) 685-3451. (*.)
Gum arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree.
The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. Available
from Vanns Spices LTD. at (800) 583-1963. For
the squab, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter and oil over medium
heat. Add the squab, onions, parsley, saffron, cinnamon, ginger,
and gum arabic and saute until golden brown. Season and add enough
water to cover. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until
tender, about one hour. Remove from the heat, using a slotted spoon,
transfer the squab to a bowl, and reserve keeping warm Strain the
cooking liquid through a fine medium saucepan ver medium heat. Bring
to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer until reduced by half, about
30 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the squab meat, and set aside
keeping warm. For
the chaariya, prepare a hot steamer. In a medium, shallow pan, combine
the vermicelli and half the oil and toss to coat. Place the pan
in the steamer for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat, add the remaining
oil, and toss to coat. Place in the steamer and continue to steam
for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool completely.
Bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add the vermicelli and
simmer until tender, about two minutes. Remove from the heat and
strain through a fine mesh sieve. Transfer the vermicelli to a medium
bowl, add the butter, and set aside keeping warm. To
serve, spoon some vermicelli onto the center of a large deep plate.
Spoon some squab on top and cover with the remaining vermicelli.
Spoon some sauce around the dish and garnish with cinnamon and sugar.
Chicken
"Beldi" Trid Boujemaa Mars (Serves
4) For
the chicken: 10
1/2 ounces sea salt 4
1/2 pounds boned Rhode Island Red chicken meat [*] 2
large onions, peeled and thinly sliced 2
springs cilantro, stemmed and chopped Pinch
of saffron threads 1
teaspoon ground cinnamon 5
1/3 ounces unsalted butter, diced 2
ounces vegetable oil Pinch
of gum arabic [**] 2
cups water Salt,
pepper, and ginger power to taste 3 10-inch warka leaves [***] 1/4
cup melted butter For
the dish: Ground cinnamon Note:
Trid is considered the poor man's bisteeya. "Beldi" refers
to an older, free range, country chicken. Many chickens are kept
for their eggs. Because of its age, the meat is tougher and more
flavorful but requires low-slow cooking techniques. (*.)
Rhode Island Red chickens are a traditional breed of poultry and
are similar in flavor to the Beldi chickens. Available through Stone
Church Farms at (845) 658-3243. (**.)
Gum arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree.
The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. It
comes in small round pellets and is available from Vanns Spices
LTD. at (800) 583-1693. (****.)
See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through
Fattal's at (973) 742-7125. For
the chicken, in a large bowl, rub the chicken with the salt to coat.
Rinse thoroughly under cold running water, pat dry and set aside.
In a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the chicken, onions,
cilantro, saffron, cinnamon, butter, oil, gum arabic, and water
to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until tender, about one hour.
Remove from the heat and using a slotted spoon, transfer the chicken
to a cutting board, and reserve the cooking liquid. Remove the bones
and discard. Transfer the chicken meat to the saucepan, season,
and reserve keeping warm. To
assemble, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Arrange some warka in
a large round cake pan, and spoon some of the chicken on top. Repeat
with the remaining warka, to form two more layers. Drizzle with
butter and place in the oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes.
Remove from the heat and reserve. To
serve, place a slice of chicken trid onto a plate and sprinkle with
cinnamon. Tangia
Marrakchia Boujemaa Mars (Serves
4) For
the tangia 3
1/2 pounds lamb shanks, rinsed 3
cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2
teaspoons ground cumin 3
threads saffron 1
teaspoon ground ginger 1
whole nutmeg Rind
from 1 preserved lemon, Sliced[*] 1/4
cup olive oil 1/2
cup water Salt,
white pepper, and nutmeg to taste Note:
Tangia pots and recipes are a specialty of Marrakech. The broad
terra cotta urns are filled with meat, usually lamb, spices, and
aromatics. The tangia employs the same cooking technique as the
tajine, using low heat and little water. Most tangia are cooked
overnight in the coals of the public ovens. Tangia pots are avail
able through Artisan Workshop LLC at (212) 260-6700. (*.)
See page 21 for the recipe. Available through Haddouch Gourmet Imports
at (206) 382-1706. For
the tangia, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In an earthenware jar,
combine all of the ingredients and season. Cover with aluminum foil
and place in the oven until very tender, about six hours. Remove
from the heat and serve. Squab
Trid with Horseradish Seeds Fatna
Kotni (Serves
6) For
the trid: 6
squab 1
onion, peeled and diced 1/2
teaspoon salt 1/2
teaspoon ground black pepper 1/4
teaspoon chopped ginger 1/4
teaspoon of saffron powder 1
stick cinnamon 1
tablespoon unsalted butter 4
10-inch warka leaves [*] For
the dish: Nigella
seeds [**] Horseradish
seeds [***] Note:
Trid is considered the poor man's bisteeya. (*.)
See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through
Fattal's at (973) 742-7125. (**.)
Nigella are tiny black seeds with a slightly tannic flavor. They
are used to season and decorate many savory dishes. Available through
Vanns Spices LTD. at (800) 583-1693. (***.)
Available through Oh Nuts! At (407) 857-1348. For
the trid, in a medium saucepan, bring all of the ingredients to
a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 45 minutes or until
tender. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm. To
assemble, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Spoon the squab mixture
into a tajine and cover. Arrange the warka leaves on top. Sprinkle
with nigella and horse radish seeds, cover with the tagine lid,
and place in the oven until the sauce is reduced by half, about
20 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm. To
serve, spoon some squab and warka leaves onto a plate. Lamb
and Cardoon Tagine with Preserved Lemons Fatna
Kotni (Serves
4) For
the lamb: 3
1/2 pounds boned lamb shoulder, diced 1
onion, peeled and diced 6
cloves garlic, peeled and minced 1
quart water Salt
and pepper to taste For
the cardoons: 2
bunches cardoons, peeled, halved, and reserved in acidulated water
Juice
of one lemon 1
cup water 1
teaspoon ground ginger 3
threads saffron 1/2
cup vegetable oil 1/2
cup extra virgin olive oil 1
teaspoon salt For
the dish: Preserved lemon strips[*] Oil
cured green olives (*.)
See page 21 for recipe. Available through Haddouch Gourmet Imports
at (206) 382-1706. For
the lamb, in a medium saucepan over high heat, bring all of the
ingredients to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer until tender,
about 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping
warm. For
the cardoons, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine all
of the ingredients and mix to combine. Bring to a boil, reduce the
heat, cover, and simmer for one hour, or until tender. Remove from
the heat and set aside keeping warm. To
finish the tagine, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Spoon the lamb
into the center of a tagine and arrange the cardoons on top. Place
in the oven until warmed through, about 15 minutes. To
serve, spoon some preserved lemon and olives on top of the tagine.
Braised
Squab Bisteeya Fatna
Kotni (Serves
4) For
the bisteeya: 3
1/2 ounces unsalted butter, diced 3
squab, quartered 6
small onions, peeled and finely chopped 1-inch
piece ginger, peeled and minced 3 threads saffron 3
cups water 1
bunch cilantro, stemmed and chopped 1
bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped 1
tablespoon ground cinnamon 1
cup granulated sugar 12
eggs 1/2
pound blanched almonds, toasted and chopped For
the dish: 6
8-inch warka leaves [*] Salt
and pepper to taste For
the garnish: Ground
cinnamon Granulated
sugar (*.)
See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through
Fattal's at (973) 742-7125 For
the bisteeya in a large saucepan melt the butter over medium heat.
Add the squab, onions, ginger, saffron, and water. Bring to a simmer,
and maintain the heat for 30 minutes, or until reduced by half.
Remove from the heat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the pigeons
to a cutting board and return the saucepan to medium heat. Remove
and discard the squab bones and reserve the squab meat. Add the
cilantro, parsley, cinnamon, and sugar to the cooking liquid. Bring
to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for five minutes. In a medium
bowl, whisk the eggs until smooth. Temper the eggs adding 1/3 of
the hot liquid while whisking constantly. Add the eggs, squab meat,
and almonds to the saucepan and maintain at a simmer until warmed
through. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside to cool. To
assemble the bisteeya, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Arrange
three sheets of warka in a deep round cake pan coated with non-stick
spray, allowing the edges to drape over the sides of the pan. Spoon
the pigeon filling in the center and fold the edges in Arrange two
sheets of warka on top and tuck in the edges. Place the bisteeya
in the oven to bake for 30 minutes. Remove from the heat brush liberally
with melted butter and return to the heat until golden brown. Remove
from the heat and set to cool slightly. To
serve, place a slice of bisteeya on a plate and sprinkle with cinnamon
and sugar. Chicken
Tagine with Fresh Almonds Aziz
Sakan (Serves
6) For
the chicken: 6
cloves garlic, peeled and crushed 2
tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt 3
small chickens, quartered 1
teaspoon ground ginger 1
teaspoon ground black pepper 2
threads saffron 1
teaspoon turmeric 1/2
bunch parsley, chopped 1
cinnamon stick 2
1/2 ounces unsalted butter, softened 5
cups water 2
onions, peeled and thinly sliced 1
pound fresh almonds, shelled Salt
and pepper to taste For
the garnish: Chopped parsley Note:
The tagine cooking vessel is prized for its use of low heat and
little water, a precious commodity in the desert climate. The ingredients,
spices, and aromatics are placed in the tagine with a mere spoonful
of water. When placed in the hot coals of the public ovens overnight,
the A frame lid enables moisture to circulate in the form of steam
and condensation, keeping the dish moist. Today, most tagines are
used for decoration. For
the chicken, using a mortar and pestle, grind garlic and salt to
form a paste. Thoroughly rub the chicken with the garlic paste.
Rinse the chicken under cold running water and pat dry. In a large
saucepan, bring the chicken, ginger, pepper, saffron, turmeric,
parsley, cinnamon stick, butter, and enough water to cover to a
boil. Reduce the heat, cover, and simmer until the chicken is very
tender, about one hour, turning occasionally. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer the chicken to a plate, reserve, and maintain the hot pan.
Add the onions and almonds to the hot broth and simmer until the
onions are very tender and the sauce has reduced by one-quarter,
about 10 minutes. Return the chicken to the hot broth and simmer
until warmed through, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat, sea
son, and set aside keeping warm. To
serve, spoon some chicken and hot broth into a tagine and garnish
with chopped parsley. Harira
with Shebbakia and Dates Aziz
Sakan (Serves
6) For
the shebbakia: 2
teaspoons active dry yeast 3/4
cup water, 90[degrees] 1
tablespoon red wine vinegar 1
tablespoon olive oil 1
tablespoon unsalted butter, softened 1/4
cup rose water [*] 1/4
teaspoon ground aniseed 1/3
cup toasted sesame seeds, pureed 1
cup honey 1/2
cup whole sesame seeds For
the harira: 2
tablespoons vegetable oil 8
ounces chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained 2
onions, peeled and chopped 1
cup stemmed and chopped parsley 1
tablespoon chopped celery leaves 1
teaspoon ground black pepper 1
teaspoon turmeric 2
tablespoons unsalted butter 1/2
teaspoon ground cinnamon 1/2
pound lamb shoulder 1
bunch cilantro, leaves only 1
teaspoon salt 1
1/2 quarts plus 1 tablespoon water 2
pounds peeled, seeded, and pureed tomatoes 3
tablespoons all-purpose flour dissolved in 1/2 cup water Salt
and pepper to taste For
the dish: Dates (*.)
Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at (973) 340-4832. Note:
Harira is a rich soup tradition ally served to break the fast during
Ramadan, the Muslim month of fasting. It is traditionally accompanied
with shebbakia and hard-boiled eggs. For
the shebbakia, preheat the fryer to 365 degrees. In a small bowl,
combine the yeast and two tablespoons of water, set aside for two
minutes, or until bubbles form on the surface. Transfer to a medium
bowl, add the flour, vinegar, oil, butter, ruse water, aniseed,
ad sesame paste and mix well to combine. Transfer the dough to a
lightly floured work surface and divide the dough in half. Roll
each piece 1/4-inch thick. Using a fluted pastry wheel, cut into
7x1/2-inch strips. Tie each strip into a knot, transfer to a parchment-lined
sheet pan, and set aside for five minutes. In a medium saucepan
over medium heat, bring the honey to a boil, remove from the heat,
and set aside keeping warm. Fry the shebbakia knots in the fryer
until golden brown, about two minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
the shebbakia to the warm honey and toss to coat. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer the shebbakia to a parchment-lined sheet pan. Sprinkle
with the sesame seeds to coat and set aside. For
the harira, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat.
Add the chickpeas, onions, parsley, celery leaves, pepper, turmeric,
and butter and saute until translucent, about four minutes. Add
the cinnamon and lamb and saute until golden brown, about 15 minutes.
In a blender, combine the cilantro leaves, salt, and one tablespoon
of water and blend until combined, about one minute. Add the cilantro
mixture and tomatoes to the saucepan. Adjust the heat to low and
simmer for 15 minutes. Add the remaining water and simmer until
reduced by 1/3, about 30 minutes. Increase the heat, bring to a
boil, and whisk in the flour mixture, until smooth. Maintain the
heat for two minutes, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat and simmer
until the flour is well combined and smooth about three minutes.
Remove from the heat, season, and set aside keeping warm. To
serve, spoon some harira into a soup bowl and accompany with shebbakia
and dates. Breakfast
Pastries Aziz
Sakan (Serves
6) For
the fekkas: 1
teaspoon active dry yeast 11/4
cups lukewarm water, 90[degrees] 11/2
cups cake flour 1/8
teaspoon salt 3/4
cup confectioners' sugar 1/4
cup unsalted butter, melted 1
teaspoon aniseed 1
teaspoon sesame seeds 1/4
cup finely chopped almonds 1/4
cup orange flower water [*] For
the mlaoui crepes: 1
tablespoon active dry yeast 1
1/4 cups water, 90[degrees] 2
pounds all-purpose flour 3
1/2 ounces melted butter 1
egg 1
teaspoon salt 1/4
cup peanut oil Salt
and pepper to taste For
the ghoriba: 1/4
cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted 1
egg 1
cup confectioners' sugar 1
1/2 cups semolina flour 1/2
teaspoon baking powder 1/2
teaspoon salt 1/4
teaspoon vanilla extract 1/2
tablespoon ground cinnamon (*)
Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at (973) 340-4832. For
the fekkas, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a small bowl, combine
the yeast and 1/4 cup of the water and set aside for two minutes.
In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment,
combine the yeast mixture, flour, salt, sugar, and butter and mix
to combine. Add the aniseed, sesame seeds, almond, orange flower
water, and the remaining water. Mix until just combined. Transfer
the dough to a flat work surface lightly dusted with confectioners'
sugar. Knead the dough until smooth, about two minutes. Roll the
dough into a 12-inch cylindrical loaf. Place on a parchment lined
sheet pan and set aside in a warm place until doubled in volume,
about two hours. Score the top several times with a fork and place
in the oven to bake until just golden brown, about 20 minutes. Remove
from the heat and set aside to cool completely. Transfer the loaf
to a cutting board and cut on the bias into thin biscotti-like slices.
Place on a parchment-lined sheet pan and place in the oven until
golden brown, about five minutes on each side. Remove from the heat
and set aside to cool. For
the mlaoui crepes, in a small bowl, combine the yeast and 1/4 cup
of the water and set aside for two minutes. In a medium bowl, mix
together the yeast, remaining water, flour, butter, egg, and salt.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until
smooth and elastic, about five minutes. Place in a medium bowl,
cover with plastic wrap, and set aside to rise for two hours. Punch
down the dough and turn onto a lightly flowered work surface. Cut
the dough into 12 3-ounce rounds and roll each to 1/4-inch thick
squares. Fold each square in half, and fold in half again. Transfer
to a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. In a large non-stick
saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season the bread lightly,
and saute on both sides until golden brown, about four minutes.
Remove from the heat and set aside. For
the ghoriba, preheat the oven to 350 degrees and brush a parchment-lined
sheet pan with butter. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with
the whisk attachment, beat the egg and 3/4 cup of the sugar until
thick and lemon colored, about two minutes. Add two tablespoons
of melted butter and mix until combined, making sure to scraped
own the sides of the bowl. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl,
and using a rubber spatula, fold in the semolina, baking powder,
salt, and vanilla. Mix until well combined. Roll the dough into
small discs. Liberally coat the cookies with the remaining confectioners'
sugar and cinnamon, and place on the prepared sheet pan. Place in
the oven to bake for 15 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside
to cool. To
serve, arrange some fekkas, mlaoui crepes, and ghoriba on a tray
and serve. Lamb
Tagine with Tomatoes and Onions Kaltoum
el Abbadi (Serves
6) For
the lamb: 1/4
cup vegetable oil 1
tablespoon unsalted butter 1
pound lamb shoulder 1
onion, peeled and diced 1/2
teaspoon paprika 5
threads saffron 3
cinnamon sticks 2
cups water 1
tomato, thinly sliced 1
red onion, peeled and thinly sliced For
the garnish: Confectioners'
sugar Ground cinnamon Note:
The tagine cooking vessel is prized for its use of low heat and
little water, a precious commodity in the desert climate. The ingredients,
spices, and aromatics, are placed in the tagine with a mere spoonful
of water. When placed in the hot coals of the public ovens overnight,
the A-frame lid enables moisture to circulate in the form of steam
and condensation, keeping the dish moist. Today, most tagines are
used for decoration. For
the lamb, preheat the oven to 375 degrees. In a large saucepan,
heat the oil and butter over high heat. Add the lamb and onion and
sear the lamb on all sides. Add the paprika, saffron, and cinnamon
sticks and stir to combine. Add the water, cover, and maintain at
a simmer until tender, about one hour. Remove from the heat and
set aside. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the lamb to a tagine
and add enough hot liquid to almost cover. Arrange the tomato slices
and onions on top and cover with the tagine lid. Place in the oven
and bake until the tomatoes are tender and warmed through, about
ten minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside keeping warm. To
serve, sprinkle the dish with sugar and cinnamon. Moroccan
Shladas Kaltoum
Abbadi (Serves
6) For
the potatoes salad: 2
Idaho potatoes, peeled, boiled, and cooled 1
teaspoon olive oil 3
sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped Salt,
pepper, paprika, and lemon juice to taste For
the potatoes salad, in a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients
and toss to combine.Season and set aside. For
the carrots salad: 1
large carrot, halved 1
clove garlic, peeled 1
teaspoon olive oil 3
sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped Salt,
pepper, cumin, paprika, and white wine vinegar to taste For
the carrot salad, bring a medium saucepan of water to a boil. Add
the carrot and garlic clove and maintain the heat until tender.
Remove from the heat, strain through a fine mesh sieve, and discard
the garlic clove. Place the carrot on a cutting board, slice into
1/4-inch thick discs, and place in a medium bowl to cool. Add the
olive oil and parsley and toss to combine. Season and set aside.
For
the lentils salad: 1
onion, peeled and finely chopped 1
plum tomato, peeled, seeded, and finely diced 1
cup cooked lentils 1/2
cup olive oil 3
sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped Salt,
pepper, and paprika to taste For
the lentil salad, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium
heat. Add the onion and saute until translucent. Add the tomato
and saute until tender. Add the parsley and lentils and saute until
warmed through. Remove from the heat, season, and set aside to cool.
For
the beets salad: 2
beets, peeled and medium diced 1
clove garlic, peeled 1
teaspoon olive oil 3
sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped Salt,
pepper, paprika, and white wine vinegar to taste For
the beet salad, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, combine the
beets and the garlic clove. Cover with water, bring to a boil, and
maintain the heat until tender. Remove from the heat strain through
a fine mesh sieve, and discard the garlic clove. Place the beets
in a medium bowl to cool. Add the olive oil and parsley and toss
to combine. Season and set aside. For
the eggplant salad: 1/4
cup vegetable oil 1
eggplant, peeled and diced 1
onion, peeled and diced 2
plum tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and diced 3
sprigs parsley, stemmed and chopped Salt,
pepper, paprika, and lemon juice to taste For
the eggplant salad, in a medium saute pan, heat the oil over medium
heat. Add the eggplant, onion, and tomatoes and saute until golden
brown, about three minutes. Remove from the heat and transfer to
a medium bowl to cool. Add the parsley, season, and set aside. For
the bread: 1
package active dry yeast 1
1/4 cups water, lukewarm 1
teaspoon granulated sugar 3
1/2 cups all-purpose flour 1
cup whole wheat flour 2
teaspoons salt 1/2
cup milk, warm 1
teaspoon sesame seeds 1
tablespoon aniseed Softened
butter as needed Cornmeal as needed For
the bread, preheat the oven to 400 degrees. In a small bowl, combine
the yeast, 1/4 cup water, and sugar and set aside for two minutes.
Mix to combine and set aside for five minutes, or until small bubbles
form on the surface. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with
the dough hook attachment, combine the all-purpose flour and whole-wheat
flour and mix to combine on low speed. Add the yeast, salt, milk,
sesame seeds, aniseed, and the remaining water to form a firm dough,
about seven minutes. Transfer
the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead until smooth.
Cut the dough in half, transfer one piece to a buttered bowl, and
knead the dough to form a conical shape. Transfer to a sheet pan
lightly dusted with cornmeal. Gently press down to form a 5-inches
disc. Repeat with the remaining and set aside for two hours. Using
a fork, score the top of the dough several times and place in the
oven to bake for 12 minutes. Adjust the heat to 300 degrees and
bake for an additional 30 minutes. Remove from the heat and set
aside to cool. Note:
Every Moroccan dinner begins with an assortments of shladas and
thick wedges of fresh bread. The prepared vegetables and olives
are served with a variety of marinades and dressing. Jobne
Cheese Fatima
Sahmoudi (makes
2 pounds) For
the cheese: 4
cardoon flowers, dried and crushed[*] 1
teaspoon water 1
quart whole milk (*.)
Cardoon flowers are available from June-November through The Chef's
Garden at (800) 289-4644. Vegatable rennet is a suitable substitute.
Available through New England Cheesemaking Supply Company at (413)
628-3808. Note:
In each issue of Art Culinaire, recipes are tested for accuracy.
Occasionally we are unable to test a recipe due to the seasonality
of ingredients, as was the case with the jobne cheese. The cardoons
required to curdle the milk are members of the thistle family, and
have been used for centuries to make cheese. A special thanks goes
to Jonathan White of Egg Farm Dairy for his consultation and research
on this recipe. For
the cheese, in a small bowl, combine the dried cardoon heads and
water. Using the back of a wooden spoon, mash the cardoons to form
a paste. Transfer the paste to a small piece of cheesecloth, tie
to enclose, and squeeze dry, discarding the liquid. In a medium
saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk to a boil, stirring frequently.
Reduce the heat and add the prepared cardoon paste. squeezing the
cheesecloth occasionally to extract the cardoon liquid. Stir occasionally
until white curds form. Simmer for 30 seconds without stirring.
Remove from the heat and remove the cheesecloth. Transfer the curdled
milk to a medium bowl and set aside in the refrigerator until the
cheese is the consistency of yogurt, about three days. Transfer
the cheese to a cheesecloth-lined, fine mesh sieve to drain overnight.
Lamb
and Almond Braewats Fatima
Sahmoudi (Serves
6) For
the lamb braewats: 1
1/2 pounds ground lamb 1
onion, peeled and chopped 1/4
bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped 1
teaspoon ground cumin 1
teaspoon paprika 1/2
teaspoon ground black pepper 36
10x2-inch strips warka [*] For
the almond braewats: 1
pound almonds, blanched 4
ounces granulated sugar 1/2
teaspoon ground cinnamon 1
tablespoon melted butter Pinch of gum arabic, crushed [**] 1
tablespoon orange flower water [***] 36
10x2-inch strips warka [*] 2
cups honey, warmed For
the garnish: Mint sprigs Note:
Braewats are triangular pastries made with warka and savory or sweet
fillings. (*.)
See page 21 for recipe. Prepared warka leaves are available through
Fattal's at (973) 742-7125. (**.)
Gum Arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree.
The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. Available
from Vanns Spices LTD. at (800) 583-1693. (***.)
Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at (973) 340-4832. For
the lamb braewats, in a medium bowl, combine the lamb, onion, and
parsley. Place the lamb in a meat grinder fitted with the medium
die attachment, and grind in to a large bowl. Add the cumin, paprika,
and black pepper and mix to combine. Place the warka strips transversely
on a flat work surface. Place one tablespoon of the filling to one
side of a warka strip and fold towards the center on a diagonal
to form a triangle. Continue to fold, maintaining the triangular
shape. Place the braewats, seam-side-down, on a parchment-lined
sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining warka and reserve. For
the almond braewats, in the bowl of a food processor fitted with
the metal blade attachment, pulse the almonds and the sugar to form
a rough paste, about two minutes. Add the cinnamon, butter, gum
arabic, and orange flower water. Pulse to form a smooth paste, about
one minute. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, and set aside.
Place the warka strips transversely on a flat work. Place one tablespoon
of the filling to one side of a warka strip and fold towards the
center on a diagonal to form a triangle. Continue to fold, maintaining
the triangular shape. Place the braewats, seamside-down, on a parchment-lined
sheet pan. Repeat with the remaining warka and reserve. To
finish the braewats, preheat the fryer to 365 degrees. Fry the lamb
braewats in the fryer until golden brown. Using a slotted spoon,
transfer to a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain, and reserve
keeping warm. Place the honey in a large saucepan over medium heat.
Bring to a boil, remove from the heat, and set aside keeping warm.
Fry almond brae wats in the fryer until golden brown. Using a slotted
spoon, transfer the almond braewats to the warm hot honey and toss
to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the almond braewats to
the warm hot honey and toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer
the almond braewats to a parchment-lined sheet pan, and set aside.
To
serve, arrange some lamb and some almond braewats on a plate and
garnish with mint. Spicy
Tripe with Pan Fried Bread Fatima
Sahmoudi (Serves
6) For
the tripe: 12
ounces lamb tripe, blanched 1
cup kosher salt 4
cloves garlic, peeled and chopped 1/2
bunch parsley, stemmed and chopped 1/2
cup olive oil 1/2
cup vegetable oil 1
yellow onion, peeled and chopped 1
large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced 1
teaspoon ground ginger 1
teaspoon paprika 1/2
teaspoon cumin 3
threads saffron Salt
and pepper to taste For
the pan fried bread: 1
tablespoon active dry yeast 1
1/4 cups water, 90[degrees] 2
pounds all-purpose flour 3
1/2 ounces melted butter 1
egg 1
teaspoon salt 1/4
cup vegetable oil Salt
to taste For
the garnish Preserved
lemon strips [*] (*.)
See page 21 for recipe. Available through Haddouch Gourmet Imports
at (206) 382-1706. For
the tripe, place the tripe in a medium bowl, and rub with the salt.
Place the tripe under cold running water, rinse well, and pat dry.
Transfer to a cutting board, and cut into 1-inch pieces and place
in a medium bowl. Add the garlic and parsley, toss to coat, and
set aside. In a large saute pan, heat the olive oil and vegetable
oil over medium heat. Add the onion and tomato and saute until translucent.
Add the tripe, ginger, paprika, cumin, and saffron, and cover with
water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, cover, and simmer for 45
minutes, or until tender. Remove from the heat, season, and set
aside keeping warm. For
the pan fried bread, in a medium bowl, combine the yeast and 1/4
cup of the water and set aside for two minutes. Add the remaining
water, flour, butter, egg, and salt and mix until just combined.
Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface, and knead
until smooth and elastic, about five minutes. Place in a medium
bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and set aside to rise for two hours.
Punch down the dough and turn onto a lightly floured work surface.
Divide the dough into six pieces and roll each to 1/4-inch thick
squares. Fold each square in half, and fold in half again. Transfer
to a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. In a large non-stick
saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat. Season the bread lightly,
and saute on both sides until golden brown, about four minutes.
Remove from the heat and set aside. To
serve, spoon some tripe onto some bread and garnish with preserved
lemon. Faqqus
and Orange Salad Fatima
Sahmoudi (Serves
6) For
the faqqus salad: 1
pound grated faqqus [*] 1/4
cup granulated sugar 2
teaspoons orange flower water [**] 1
cup water Salt
and sugar to taste For
the orange salad: 3
cups fresh orange juice 2
oranges, peeled, segmented, and seeded 3
heads butterhead lettuce, cored and shred 2
teaspoons ground cinnamon 1/2
cup granulated sugar 2
tablespoons orange flower water [**] Salt
and sugar to taste For
the garnish: Fresh-dried
oregano (*.)
Faqqus are a type of Moroccan cucumber. English cucumbers are a
suitable substitute. (**.)
Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at (973) 340-4832. For
the faqqus salad, in a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients
to combine. Season and set aside keeping cool. For
the orange salad, in a medium bowl, toss together all of the ingredients
to combine. Season and set aside keeping cool. To
serve, spoon some faqqus salad and orange salad in to two separate
bowls and garnish with oregano. Almond
and Cinnamon Bisteeya Hassan
Kamal Achmed
Abboudi (Serves
6) For
the warka: 5
8-inch warka leaves [*] 2
1/2 cups vegetable oil For
the milk: 2
cups whole milk 1
teaspoon gum arabic [**] For
the almonds: 3
1/2 ounces blanched almonds, minced 1
teaspoon ground cinnamon 2
teaspoons confectioners' sugar For
the orange salad: 2
oranges, peeled and thinly sliced 1
teaspoon ground cinnamon 1
teaspoon orange flower water[***] 1
teaspoon confectioners' sugar For
the garnish: Mint
springs (*.)
See page 21. Prepared warka leaves are available through Fattal's
at (973) 742-7125. (**.)
Gum Arabic, also known as meska, is the sap from an almond tree.
The tiny beads are used as a flavoring and thickening agent. Available
from Vanns Spices LTD. at (800) 583-1693. (***.)
Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at (973) 340-4832. For
the warka, in a large saute pan, heat the oil over medium heat.
Place the warka leaves in the pan and fry until crisp, turning once.
Remove from the heat, place on a paper towel-lined sheet pan to
drain, and set aside keeping warm. For
the milk, in a medium saucepan over medium heat, bring the milk
and gum arabic to a simmer and maintain the heat for 10 minutes
or until the mixture becomes thick. Remove from the heat and strain
through a fine mesh sieve. Set aside keeping warm. For
the almonds, in a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients, mix
to combine and set aside. For
the orange salad, in a medium bowl, combine all of the ingredients,
toss to combine, and set aside. To
assemble, place a warka leaf in the center of a plate and sprinkle
with some almonds. Repeat with four more layers of warka leaves.
Sprinkle some almonds on top, arrange some orange salad around the
dish and garnish with mint. Drizzle the milk on top. Spicy
Fried Sardines Hassan
Kamal Achmed
Abboudi (Serves
6) For
the sardines: 1
teaspoon ground cumin 1
teaspoon paprika 1
teaspoon ground white pepper 3
cloves garlic, peeled and halved 4
springs oregano 2
tablespoons white wine vinegar 30
fresh sardines, butterflied and cleaned 2
cups all-purpose flour 2
cups vegetable oil Salt
and pepper to taste For
the tomato sauce: 2
tablespoons vegetable oil 4
large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped 1
teaspoon ground cumin 1
teaspoon ground paprika Salt, pepper, ground cumin, and ground paprika
to taste For
the dish: Shredded
lettuce Lemon
halves For
the garnish: Parsley
sprigs For
the sardines, in a large bowl, whisk together the cumin, paprika,
white pepper, garlic, oregano, and vinegar. Add the sardines, toss
to coat, and set aside for 10 minutes. Place the flour in a large,
shallow bowl. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sardines to the
flour and toss to coat. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the sardines
to a parchment-lined sheet pan and set aside. In a large saute pan,
heat the oil over medium heat. Fry the sardines on both sides until
golden brown. Using a slotted spatula, transfer the sardines to
a paper towel-lined sheet pan to drain. Season and set aside keeping
warm. For
the tomato sauce, in a medium saucepan, heat the oil remaining ingredients
and simmer until very tender, about 15 minutes, Remove from the
heat, season, and set aside. To
serve, arrange some lettuce and lemon halves around the plate. Place
some sardines around the dish and top with some tomato sauce. Garnish
with parsley sprigs. Moroccan
Cookies Hassan
Kamal Achmed
Abboudi (Serves
6) For
the kab el ghzal cookies: 5
tablespoons melted butter 2
pounds blanched almonds, chopped 1
pound granulated sugar 1
cup plus 1 teaspoon orange flower water [*] 2
1/4 cups all-purpose flour 1/4
teaspoon salt For
the coco cookies: 1/2
pound almond paste 1/4
pound granulated sugar 4
egg whites For
the mluza cookies 1/2
pound almond paste 1/4
pound granulated sugar 4
ounces blanced almonds, minced 4
egg whites 24
whole blanced almonds For
the garnish: Confectioners'
sugar (*.)
Available through Baroody Imports Inc. at (973) 340-4832. For
the kab el ghzal cookies, preheat the oven to 325 degrees and brush
a parchment-lined sheet pan with two tablespoons butter. In a medium
bowl, whisk together the almonds, sugar, and one teaspoon orange
flower water. Divide the mixture into four balls and roll each into
8-inch long strips. Using a sharp knife, cut each strip into 2-inch
pieces and set aside. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with
the dough hook attachment, combine the flour, two tablespoons of
butter, orange flower water, and salt. Mix, on low speed for 12
minutes or until the dough is smooth and elastic. Transfer the dough
to a flat work surface and divide into four equal parts. Roll each
ball to form 2x12-inch strips. Arrange some almond filling across
the bottom edge of each pastry sheet, fold to enclose, and trim
away any excess dough with a fluted pastry wheel. Using a sharp
knife, cut the pastry between the almond paste filling to form four
cookies. Transfer the cookies to the prepared sheet pans and bend
to a form a crescent shape. Place in the oven to bake, for three
minutes or until the edges begin to brown. Remove from the heat
and reserve. For
the coco cookies, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bowl of
an electric mixed fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together
the almond paste and sugar until smooth and well combined, about
three minutes. Add two of the egg whites and mix until well combine,
making sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer the batter
to a medium bowl and set aside. In a separate bowl of an electric
mixer fitter with the whisk attachment, beat the remaining egg whites
to form stiff peaks, about four minutes. Remove the bowl and fold
the egg whites into the almond paste to combine. Roll the mixture
into 24 rounds and place on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Place in
the oven to bake until golden brown, about five minutes. Remove
from the heat and set aside to cool. For
the mluza cookies, preheat the oven to 325 degrees. In the bowl
of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, mix together
the almond paste, sugar, and almonds until smooth and well combined,
about three minutes. Add two of the egg whites and mix until well
combined, making sure to scrape down the sides of the bowl. Transfer
the dough to a medium bowl and set aside. In the separate bowl of
an electric mixer fitter with the whisk attachment, beat the remaining
egg whites to form stiff peaks, about four minutes. Remove the bowl
and fold the egg whites into the almond paste mixture to combine.
Roll the mixture into 24 balls, place on a parchment-lined sheet
pan, score the top with a knife, and place an almond on top. Place
in the oven to bake until golden brown, about five minutes. Remove
from the heat and set aside to cool. To
serve, dust the coco cookies with confectioners' sugar and arrange
the cookies on a plate. |